It comes out of the ground. It’s more prevalent in certain areas. It accumulates in basements and crawl spaces and can cause lung cancer from long term exposure.

Sadly these are for a Tundra

I actually might have some let me look.

Thanks for the advice I will give it a shot.

Here is the guide I used

https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/55525-upgrade-the-z-axis-with-a-nema17-stepper-and-tr8x8-leadscrew/

I had to cut out the old lead nut and drill tiny holes to mount it. The wiring that came with the new motor plugged into the main board but the motor turned the wrong way so I had to switch two wires. Do not switch them the way they did it in the guide it will not work.

Something to consider is also that the stock screw is not standard and you should change your layer height to

Layer Height (mm) 0.04375 (results may vary)* 0.0875 0.13125 0.175 0.21875 0.2625 0.30625

https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3904/what-are-the-magic-numbers-on-a-monoprice-select-mini

There is also sailfish firmware which iirc helps a lot plus using octoprint and modern slicing software. The only pain point is leveling the bed manually and not having a flexible bed plate so sometimes removing the print can be a pain. I used to get pretty good prints off of this clone.

Prusia slicer makes it easy to set up two extruders as well as having the option for the firmware. Although it still outputs gcode and you have to convert it to x3g which I use the GPX octoprint plugin for. I’m sure you could use Orca slicer but it’s not documented. I used to use Slic3r before Prusia slicer became a thing.

I had to go with prusia slicer but at least it’s an up to date slicer.

Yes this is the first layer. I can upload the gcode later if you’re curious.

It’s a brand new roll that printed fine on another printer yesterday. I think the issue is the z axis motor as now it’s toast after I crashed it into the bed.

The outer perimeter is sticking really well though. If you look you can see where the nozzle was dragging through the plastic on that part then when it goes to infill it does this guitar stringing thing.

I don’t use Mastodon or Twitter either. I never understood following specific people and prefer following topics instead.

You beat me to it

You might look for a sony dvmc-da2 as they used to be relatively cheap until a YouTube video made people aware of them. You might be able to snag one though.

https://youtu.be/40SnEd1RWUU

I used to feel the same. Soldering is more likely to fail because solder is brittle and it’s a high temp environment. As long as you use quality connectors and a proper crimper then it’s good.

fortunately these were all on top, but the car sits lower so my back was not too happy bending over to work on it.

We shall see, this car was a basket case and not worth the $1500 I bought it for. It has excessive oil consumption, currently a bottle of Rislone is holding that back successfully. It also currently has a brake hose which is causing the right front brake to periodically stick causing an awful smell. I will also be replacing that this weekend.

You might look into a hard start kit. It’s a secondary capacitor and a relay which helps with the extra load at startup. Get the kind with separate capacitor and relay, not the all in one kind.

It would wildly fuck with enterprise systems because you would have to have a way to verify age for the users of EVERY system. The way it is now you would have to verify the age of users of iot and smart devices. You have to have id to turn on your lights or use the refrigerator.