Lefty here. I’ve been playing guitar for almost 30 years. I play “right handed” and always have. It felt way more natural to me to fret with my dominant hand, and my family had a right handed guitar, so that’s what I went with. I never really experimented to figure out if I could be better with a left handed guitar (and now it’s much too late).

I also bat right handed and used a regular (what ever you call not-southpaw) stance when I did martial arts.

On the other hand, my dad is a lefty and started learning guitar about 10 years ago. He found holding a right handed guitar unnatural and got a left handed model.

My 2c - even if you don’t know how to play, go to a guitar shop and see which way feels better to hold. It’ll feel awkward either way, but I’ll bet one way will fell less awkward. And if it doesn’t, I’d lean toward right handed because I know it’s a pain to find left handed instruments (and it’s nice to be able to play/try friends’ guitars).

Edit: here’s another 2c: consider trying a ukulele. They are a lot of fun and much easier to learn and get a lot of the basics down. Then pick up the guitar once you have a little bit of experience with that. I recommend this because a vast majority of people never get over the hump when trying to learn guitar. It’s hard. It’s painful. It’s frustrating. You can make something that sounds like music so much more easily on a uke, which means you’re more likely to keep at it. And you’ll get a lot of the guitar basics from it so when you start learning that it’ll be an easier process to once again feel like you’re making music.

… if you do get a uke, make sure you aren’t buying a toy, though. There are a lot of unplayable toy Ike’s out there. People buy them from places like Walmart for their kids all the time thinking that it is a beginner instrument. It isn’t. It won’t stay in tune for more than a few seconds of playing and is nothing more than a noise maker. You can get a real-but-cheap beginner uke for well under $100.

I’m pretty sure it’s just headphones attached to the nasal mask.

Yes. It looks like !support@lemmy.world is the community to post a mod request on. From the sidebar of that community:

• There is a community I want to moderate, but the moderators appear to be inactive.

Please email us at info@lemmy.world or create a post in this community.

I would post and then email info@lemmy.world with a link to the post to get the admins/mods attention.

First, fair warning: I have little experience with repairing dishwashers and zero experience with that brand. I’m just a dude that likes diagnosing and fixing things.

Assuming that the internet steered you right and the error code is related to that sensor, how confident are you that the sensor is good and that it doesn’t have an intermittent failure? If I were in your shoes and the part is cheap, I’d replace it.

Ambrosia probably provided me the most hours of gaming entertainment over the 90s. They published Mac software and, if I remember correctly, most of their games were shareware and the non-paid versions were pretty well featured.

I wonder how many hundreds of hours I played Escape Velocity and Escape Velocity Override. Those were some absolutely amazing games and they supported plugins (mods) and had a thriving mod community.

For the 90s mac users, you’ll probably recognize a lot of their games (listed on the Wikipedia page). Here are some from the 90s that stand out to me:

Maelstrom

Chiral

Apeiron

Swoop

Barrack

Escape Velocity

Avara

Bubble Trouble

Harry the Handsome Executive

Mars Rising

EV Override

Ares

Escape Velocity Nova

Just curious since you clearly know a lot about this stuff: What are your thoughts on the heat sinks being a part of the issue? Is there a decent chance the device could benefit from replacing whatever adhesive/paste was used to attach them? Or is that even doable?

Ever heard of Sealioning? Look it up. That’s you. Your posts are dripping with pseudo-intellectual “just asking questions” spittle.

Three thoughts:

1. I wonder if you would still have this take if you played a newer, high quality AAA game on a high end setup. I don’t mean to imply that your mind will definitely be blown — really don’t know — but it would be interesting to see what doing so would do to your opinion.

2. Gaming is about entertainment. There is no denying that better/bigger/smoother/more immersive tends to add to the entertainment. So devs push those boundaries both for marketing reasons and because they want to push the limits. I have a hard time seeing a world in which gaming development as a whole says “hey, we could keep pushing the limits, but it would be more environmentally friendly and cheaper for our customers if we all just stopped advancing game performance.”

3. There are SO MANY smaller studios and indie devs making amazing games that can run smoothly on 5/10/15 year old hardware. And there is a huge number of older games that are still a blast to play.

Old curmudgeons unite! I totally knew what you meant.

Edit: that said, I would add NVMe SSD as the way to go… although I think that is pretty much all you find these days. Are non-nvme m.2 drives a thing?

Thanks for the details! I’m sorry to say that I don’t know enough to help you very much. I have never tried looking for or working with non PVA wood glues. I suspect that even with PVA glue, you would have a hard time getting boards glued edge to edge stay at all true, so keep in mind you are likely to end up with some warp and unevenness that may show up later…. Actually I just had an idea that I think would work well - get/borrow a pocket hole jig and use that to do your edge joinery. A pocket hole jig is really a great tool that is easy to use. Check this out. Kreg is just the most common brand of pocket hole jigs. There are cheaper ones out there, although I can’t speak to which other brands are good/bad.

It may help if you clarify what you consider natural and synthetic wood glues. Do you mean you want to be able to collect the ingredients in the woods for some reason? Is there a particular type of chemical or other component in wood glue you are trying to avoid?

Also, what are you glueing to what? Right now, I just know that you want a desktop and you don’t want to make legs. Does that mean you are setting this desktop on the frame from your old desk? Are you gluing boards together on edge? Are you don’t joinery? I’m pretty sure that the type of gluing is going to matter, especially if you’re trying to find a glue that has undergone minimal processing.

I haven’t used other handhelds, but what you say is what I’ve seen from other discussions and reviews. Yes, there are more powerful systems with better screens, but the SD’s OS is miles ahead (but not without a lot of quirks as well). The touchpads are incredible - I couldn’t imagine trying to use a handheld PC without those touchpads. Also, the custom control configuration abilities built in to steam OS are incredibly versatile and detailed.

Good point. I hadn’t thought about the physics enough. As long as the shelves are sturdy, there would be no need to anchor the corners.

This is good advice. OP, use studs, not anchors. I’ve never had good luck using wall anchors on drywall.

if the spacing doesn’t work for studs, another option would be to use angle brackets hooked to the shelf and into a stud (optimally two studs).

If the unit cannot span two studs, center the unit on one stud and put an angle bracket on each shelf into the stud, then anchor the corners using drywall anchors - the brackets should take care of most of the weight and I would think the drywall anchors would hold and provide stability.

If the unit can span two studs, center the unit over those studs and do the same, attaching angle brackets under each shelf. At that point you can skip the drywall anchor rigamarole.

Of course, the angle brackets would end up being visible, so you may want to paint them or camouflage them in some other way.

I just put up an awning over our back deck. Now it’s time for modifications. I’m going to adjust how the straps connect for the fabric so it’s tighter and water runs off better. then I’m going to seam seal and put on some waterproofing spray.

After that, my daughter and I are building a padded bench for a window nook in her room. The design and measurements are done. Fabric and foam have been purchased. Actual work completed: zero.

Voyager has good features for hiding posts as well as marking posts read and hiding read posts.

You might give the Voyager app a try. It’s what I use. It has a hide post option, as well as a “mark read on scroll” option and a button to hide read posts. I think you have to enable the last two in its settings.

Ah, sorry about that. And thank you! I refreshed the comments before asking you to do that. I’m not sure if I missed your edit or it hadn’t shown up for me yet.

You should edit your comment to remove the mischaracterization. The nsfw mod was WAY more clear than what you say.

That is a great article. Everyone here should click over and read that one!