I’m just this guy, you know?

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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • Look into the GE Enbrigjten series of Z-wave dimmer switches & 3-poles. They’re about half the price as what you linked, and use a more modern protocol stack. You’ll need a Z-wave hub, but you can get a USB dongle for about the cost of one of the switches, and it will probably Al’s include ZigBee on board as well.

    GE makes dimmable 2-pole and 3-pole switches. The good thing about their 3-pole switches is you only need one smart switch for the branch, and can use companion switches to control the main smart switch over the traveler wire.

    As always, pay attention to ALL smart switch literature and make sire you have a compatible load. Many switches require a neutral wire, and/or aren’t compatible with halogen fixtures. The product literature should make it pretty clear.

    I also use Minoston switches, which I believe are another brand of the GE switches.



  • I have an ecobee thermostat that I manage locally over WiFi using the HomeKit integration, but I’d stop short of recommending it to new users.

    1. Ecobee used to support developer access to their cloud API for controlling the thermostat and collecting efficiency data, but stopped issuing new API access tokens in the last couple of years. They have no plans currently to reopen developer access. If you have a token then the ecobee integration works fine, but if you don’t you’re stuck with HomeKit.
    2. The thermostat requires 24V from the furnace to run the display and wifi stack. They provide an adapter you can install if you have available free leads at bother ends of the thermostat control cable. I had to splice a new wire onto the 24V transformer in my furnace since it didn’t have a 24V common terminal on the control block. It wasn’t hard to do in the end, but it was a lot of research.
    3. Some advanced thermostat features require the app. I am not sure whether the app uses cloud or local control when on the same WiFi.
    4. Not all features are available through the HomeKit integration. I can change the thermostat mode among Auto/Heat/Cool/Off, manage the blower fan mode and manage the heat/cool set points.
    5. Data logging. The damned thing does log activity back home, and the data is only available in the app or on thr web portal.

    Other than that, Mrs Lincoln, how was the show? I haven’t been unhappy with the ecobee. The HomeKit integration works fine, and I get enough data from the native HA history to track and manage my energy demand. I shied away from Honeywell because my last Honeywell thermostat-- the one I used just before the thermostat I replaced with the ecobee-- tended to cycle my furnace too fast during cold snaps, and it would put the system into thermal protect mode. There was no way to widen the hysteresis (or modify the duty cycle) except by manually setting the temp high, run the house up to that temp, and then lower the setpoint and let the house take longer to cool.

    ETA: the ecobee a decent thermostat and I’m happy enough with it overall. It has “spousal approval” accreditation as well. I wish it checked more boxes for me*, but it was essentially free through a power utility program. Its a worthy upgrade for me, but YMMV.

    * namely, Z* protocol local control and continued cloud API access


  • Termux (on F-droid) is a userland environment that runs on top of your Android device’s kernel. It has Debian/Ubuntu-like package management system that pulls from repos maintained by the termux team. If the package is available for aarch64, its probably available in the termux repos. Its not so much of an app as it is an alternate userland that runs on top of the same kernel, but can interact with Android a couple of different ways.

    The main Termux app gets you a basic command line environment with the usual tools included in a headless Linux install. From there you can select your preferred repos, do package updates, installs, etc, just like on a desktop or laptop. You could even install a desktop environment and use RDP to access it.

    Then there are some companion apps that are useful:

    • Termux:boot is like a primitive rc.d feature that executes upon boot up any scripts found in the termux ~/.termux/boot directory. You could use the feature to launch an SSH server, or perhaps start your syncthing service when the phone starts up.
    • Termux:Tasker is a Tasker plugin that allows Tasker to launch scripts in .termux/tasker based on whatever triggers or profiles you define in Tasker. For example, stop or start selected services when connected to your home WiFi
    • Termux:API is a set of termux utilities to interact with the Android API, and do things like send messages, interact with the camera or battery, and manipulate system settings.

    So you could install the syncthing package in Termux and (after setting up Termux access for your internal storage) configure it to sync folders from your phone to wherever syncthing syncs. You’d set up a start script under Termux:boot to launch it when your phone starts, or Tasker to start/stop the service on your home WiFi.


  • For the F-droid enabled users, it seems there’s a Syncthing app in the Termux repos:

    ~ $ apt show syncthing
    Package: syncthing
    Version: 1.28.0
    Maintainer: @termux
    Installed-Size: 26.4 MB
    Homepage: https://syncthing.net/
    Download-Size: 7857 kB
    APT-Sources: https://packages.termux.dev/apt/termux-main stable/main aarch64 Packages
    Description: Decentralized file synchronization
    

  • No worries, the other poster was just wasn’t being helpful. And/or doesn’t understand statistics & databases, but I don’t care to speculate on that or to waste more of my time on them.

    The setting above maxes out at 24h in stock builds, but can be extended beyond that if you are willing to recompile the FTL database with different parameters to allow for a deeper look back window for your query log. Even at that point, a second database setting farther down that page sets the max age of all query logs to 1y, so at best you’d get a running tally of up to a year. This would probably at the expense of performance for dashboard page loads since the number is probably computed at page load. The live DB call is intended for relatively short windows vs database lifetime.

    If you want an all-time count, you’ll have to track it off box because FTL doesn’t provide an all-time metric, or deep enough data persistence. I was just offering up a methodology that could be an interesting and beneficial project for others with similar needs.

    Hey, this was fun. See you around.



  • #### MAXLOGAGE=24.0
    Up to how many hours of queries should be imported from the database and logs? Values greater than the hard-coded maximum of 24h need a locally compiled `FTL` with a changed compile-time value.
    

    I assume this is the setting you are suggesting can extend the query count period. It still will only give you the last N hours’ worth of queries, which is not what OP asked. I gather OP wants to see the cumulative total of blocked queries over all time, and I doubt the FTL database tracks the data in a usable way to arrive at that number.









  • SolidGrue@lemmy.worldtohomeassistant@lemmy.worldBottom Load Water Cooler
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    11 months ago

    Sure that’s easy. All you need is an HX711 sensor load cell amplifier taped to the floor of the chamber where it sits under an edge of your bottle.

    Full, 5 gal (US) jug or water weights 40lbs nominal. If you have the same bottom feed dispenser I have, it starts drawing air with about 16-20oz of water left in the bottom.

    You’d want to calibrate first for the sensor without weight (tare), and then for a full bottle’s weight (40lb) accounting for cosine error of the bottle being slightly tilted by the thickness of the sensor. Or, tape a couple of shims at 120° offset from the sensor to level out the bottle.

    Finally, note the weight of an “empty” bottle with that 18ish oz of water in it, which will probably be close to the zero value.

    Now you can calculate % full by looking at the ratio of the current weight between your full/empty value as:

    %Water = [ (W_full - (W-18oz -W_tare) ) - W_now ] / (W_full - (W_18oz - W_tare) ) x 100


  • SolidGrue@lemmy.worldtoCooking @lemmy.worldFried chicken help?
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    11 months ago

    I’m a lousy Yankee and I have a love/hate relationship with KFC. That dredge mix upthread (my preference is the flour base with a teaspoon of baking powder, omit salt) gets close to what I love about the KFC crust without a pressure fryer

    But I do love me some plain flour (and baking powder) crust too. 🍻




  • SolidGrue@lemmy.worldtoCooking @lemmy.worldFried chicken help?
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    11 months ago

    I got u

    Butterfly the breast to halve its thickness. Slice it into strips about 1 inch wide lengthwise. You should get as many as 8 long strips per breast

    Make a marinade of 2 parts buttermilk to one part pickle juice from a jar of dill pickles. Feel free to add a few shakes of chili, paprika and garlic powder. Marinate the breasts like 2 hours, or overnight.

    For the dredge you can use any of plain flour, cornmeal, breadcrumbs (plain!), crushed up cornflake cereal, crushed up rice flake cereal. 2-3 cups. Add salt, black pepper, chili, paprika, garlic powder and a small handful of Parmesan cheese from the green can. Some oregano flakes wouldn’t kill you either. Dump it all into a big bowl or a tray, and combine with a fork or whisk.

    Get a heavy pot and a quart or two of neutral oil: vegetable, peanut, corn or avocado. Don’t use olive oil. Add it to the pit and gently raise heat. Use a thermometer, and get it to about 365°F.

    Lay out a clean tray with a rack. Take individual pieces of chicken from the marinade, shake off excess, and cover it in the dredge mix. Move it to the rack to “tack up” for a few minutes. If it seems too wet, dredge it again.

    When you have all the tenders dredged, take about 6 of them and lay them gently into the oil away from you so you don’t splash yourself with hot oil. Fry them 5 minutes or so til the crust sets up light brown and crispy. Gently move them back to the rack. Let the oil come back up to 365 and repeat for the remaining pieces. If the oil doesnt completely cover the pieces splash hot oil over with a spoon (“baste”), or gently turn with tongs

    When all the chicken is fried, raise the heat up to 385. Carefully return all of the chicken pieces to the fryer for 2-3 minutes until golden brown. Remove pieces to a paper towel lined plate and shake a little salt over top to taste.