Do you have any programming experience?

Whisper.cpp is fairly easy to use, there are plenty of open source libraries for audio input, and sending text as keystrokes in Windows is quite easy.

There may very well be an existing solution, but if you want to put something together yourself, all the major building blocks already exist. You’d just have to write the code to tie it all together.

No, not really. I just can’t stand musicals. It doesn’t matter how good an episode or movie is otherwise, I just can’t enjoy musicals.

I also didn’t want to completely skip the episode and miss any plot points, so mute with subtitles worked nicely.

That was the only episode of any Trek series where I had to watch the majority of it on mute.

I know what one of the three words in the title actually mean. If you want to know what a word means, you consult a dictionary. If people are actually using these words, it kind of makes sense to add their definitions.

I think age of code plays a big part. 2 years ago: Yeah, I could do better, but it’s workable. 15 years ago: Delete everything and just start from scratch.

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The biggest problem I have with what this woman did is that she used bear mace. Should have been a handgun, or even a machete, or perhaps a flamethrower.

It’s interesting to me that most of the traffic originated it Brazil and Vietnam. I assume that this attack was carried out with a botnet. What makes computers in those two countries particularly vulnerable to infection? Maybe a popular software package was infected with malware, but I can’t think of any software that would be specifically more popular in those two locations vs the rest of the world.

I would expect that the number of attacks from a country would be roughly tied to population, but that doesn’t match with the data.

By “these guys,” you’re referring to Christians, yes?

This really surprises me. I’d expect this from mobile games. I play exclusively on PC, and I’ve never even been offered to participate in a micro transaction. Maybe I’m just playing the wrong (right?) games?

This is also true of Jellyfin, though. I have apps on my Windows PC, my Android phone, multiple Nvidia Shield boxes on my TVs, plus the web interface if I need it.

I switched over from Plex several years ago, and while it takes a bit more time to configure, compatibility for clients seems just as good for Jellyfin as it is for Plex.

Most importantly, Jellyfin is strictly client/server, no “cloud” bullshit and no remote account is required; I don’t want Plex phoning home with a list of the media on my file server.

I believe you’re correct. I didn’t realize that I had my containers set to privileged. That would explain why I’ve never had issues with mounting shares.

I’m sorry, I think I gave you bad information. I have my containers set to unprivileged=no. I forgot about the “double negative” in how that flag was described.

So apparently my containers are privileged, so I don’t think I’ve ever tried to do what you are doing.

I’m leaving this here for continuity, but don’t follow what I said here. I have my containers set as privileged. I was wrong.

I have a server that runs Proxmox and a server that runs TrueNAS, so a very similar setup to yours. As long as your LXC is tied to a network adapter that has access to your file server (it almost certainly is unless you’re using multiple NICs and/or VLANs), you should be able to mount shares inside your LXC just like you do on any other Linux machine.

Can you ping your fileserver from inside the container? If so, then the issue is with the configuration in the container itself. Privileged or unprivileged shouldn’t matter here. How are you trying to mount the CIFS share?

Edit: I see that you’re mounting the share in Proxmox and mapping it to your container. You don’t need to do this. Just mount it in the container itself.

This is just anecdotal, but I have never once experienced an issue with SFP+ vendor lock. I have mix-and-matched transceivers between Mikrotik, DLink, TPLink, Dell Enterprise, and Xyxel switches as well as both Mellanox and Intel NICs. The only issue i can recall is some auto-negotiatiin issues using 1GB modules in a Mellanox switch. Manually setting the link rate fixed it. I use a combination of 10Gb fiber, 10Gb copper, and 1Gb copper modules as well as DAC depending on the situation.

I know that vendor lock does exist, but it’s not as widespread with modern hardware.

Here’s an idea: Save your photos on your phone or computer. Back them up periodically. Send them over SMS or email to your friends and family if you think they’re worth sharing. Stop relying on social media to give the the dopamine rush that you could be getting by actually doing something useful.

My pellet stove is a bit different. It has a built-in thermostat, and a combination rotary switch/potentiometer to control the temperature. This switch has a single wire that tells the controller to shut off the stove (wire is shorted) or control the on/off set points based on the resistance. I just leave it at “fully-on” and use a normally-closed relay to control it. When HA wants to turn on the stove, it just switches the relay to open, which tells the stove to start up and continue running until the relay is closed. The built-in thermostat just switches the stove on/off, so I’m essentially just disabling that and offloading it to HomeAssistant.

I also have a fairly complex automation for my stove. I’m using it to heat a large workshop, but I generally only use my shop on days I’m not going to work. On my off days, HA checks my location (from my phone), and if I’m home, it’ll heat up my shop in the early morning so it’s already comfortable when I wake up. It’s tied into my occupancy sensors, so if the ambient temperature is below a set point and somebody is in the shop, it’ll maintain the temperature even if my schedule doesn’t mandate it. It also takes into account outdoor temperature, and it overrides everything and heats up my shop anyway if it’s at risk of freezing (frozen wood glue doesn’t work very well). I also monitor run time, and it’ll send me a notification when it needs to be cleaned. I use 18 hours, though; with my stove, I think if I let it go to 150 like yours, it’d be a fire hazard.

I hadn’t thought of monitoring pellet level, but I really like your idea. I think a beam sensor at the bottom of the hopper might do the trick. It wouldn’t give a level, but it work to let you know when it’s empty. I’m also wondering of you could install an IR emitter and photodiode on the hopper door facing downward and calculate a fill level based on how much light is reflected back. Maybe a series of contact switches from top to bottom. It’d definitely be a fun project.

I don’t think it’s so much that Zigbee is a gamble, but that buying off-brand cheap Chinese devices is a gamble.

Like another commenter said, you get what you pay for. I have some Phillips bulbs that have seriously been working well for a decade, long before I even knew about HomeAssistsnt or even knew what Zigbee was, other than that’s what the Hue bridge used.

Part of the problem is that more obscure Zigbee devices can sometimes only be found from companies with names that look like somebody just mashed their hand on the keyboard. For something like a relay or a mmWave sensor, you’re likely going to be trying to pick the best of a few questionable options unless you build it yourself. Alternatively, sometimes it just doesn’t really matter. I have a cheap temperature sensor in a storage space. I don’t care if it occasionally drops off the network; it’s just there to satisfy my curiosity.

I wish it was that simple. I don’t remember channel numbers offhand, but I mapped out my WiFi and Zigbee networks to be non-ovrlapping. I don’t have any neighbors close enough to even register an SSID, either.

The weird thing is that location doesn’t seem to matter. I have a few Aquara devices spread out across several hundred feet. The one that’s close enough to connect directly to my controller is actually the least reliable.

I use one for the same thing! I have a pellet stove, and I set the knob to “on,” then installed a relay in line with the knob. HA monitors temperature with another sensor and switches the pellet stove as needed.

I’ve got another two connected to solenoid valves, and another in a custom lighting system. They’ve been rock solid for a year or two.

The wide input power range is really convenient, too. Depending on what you’re controlling, you can probably either just power it off the same supply, or grab any random adapter and hack off the barrel plug.