For Brits (who drink tea on the regular), and because they have a 240v electric, tea kettles heat faster than stove top and are very convenient.

Since Americans don’t have tea like Brits, and we are more coffee-centric, kettles aren’t very common.

Don’t current smoke alarms have a permanent 10 year battery now?

Nice.

Even better with a little sour cream!

A Chicago Screw (the rivets in knife handles) or Binding post.

But I find a piece of wire is less effort.

You mean after someone’s been jailed for telling a lie that the current government/judge decided was a lie?

Whats a “Discord”?

Yes, that’s sarcasm, because I refused to use that garbage years ago.

Keep on enshittifying your shitty product, hopefully that will help end it.

I’ve never figured out if they’re Teflon or delrin.

Delrin is a very hard plastic used in all sorts of stuff, with a very smooth texture.

What’s a mousepad?

Seriously, gave those up years ago.

Besides track changes in word (already mentioned), I save versions of my work docs by appending the date and time to the file name. This makes it easy to confirm of we’re all looking at the same doc.

Example: worddoc_2026-09-08_16-46

Time uses 24 hour clock, so I never guess AM/PM, and it makes sorting really easy.

Nice thing is this works for any document type.

My Lenovo did all this in 2003.

It’s mostly driven by the brand of touchpad and their drivers, not windows.

Swipe with 2 fingers to scroll. Or scroll using one edge.

Depends on the touchpad

Pretty sure my Lenovo had this in 2003, lol.

It depends on the laptop and which touchpad they use.

You should see the Tizen version…

Though neither are made by the Jellyfin team and they’re both dealing with the constraints of the underlying dogshit hardware/software

FYI, “Montering” - may wanna double check, lol

Looks fantastic!

I have a lot of stuff self-hosted.

Just no outside access. Well, that’s not quite true, I do have a Tailscale VPN for remote management, but only certain machines are allowed to join, joins require my authorization, and access to the account is via two-factor.

The big thing with external access is to never permit it directly through your local connection. Do it though a Virtual Private Server (VPS) - let it get hit with access attempts. And then only allow specific traffic from the VPS to a specific service in your network using a VPN of some sort.

Two approaches:

Network isolation/DNS blocking - put the TV on a VLAN and only permit specific ports through to a media server (whatever the TV will support). If you lack VLAN capability, run PiHole as your DNS server (it works best as DNS and DHCP, but that’s just my opinion for things I like, such as proper name resolution for all devices).

Second option: (your idea with a Pi) disconnect TV from network entirely, then run something like Kodi (or whatever media center you prefer) on an old laptop, mini-PC, whatever, and have that device connect via HDMI. HDMI can passthrough the navigation controls from the TV remote (not guaranteed, but it’s part of the standard). I looked into this a long time ago but the performance wasn’t there yet. Today I’d probably try any distro and run Kodi on it.

Even my POS Samsung passes through enough of the controls to navigate Kodi on a 2017 laptop, while retaining power, volume, settings, etc for the TV itself.

My current setup is a Jellyfin server and Jellyfin client on the TV. I run PiHole with a blocklist for all the Samsung BS which has had the side effect of making the TV menus faster as it doesn’t retrieve any “what’s new” info from Samsung. Its actually kind of fun to monitor the FNS log and see the domains the TV hits, click Deny and see what breaks in the TV. On average about 30% of all DNS requests on my network get denied, and nothing of value has been lost. That’s how much crap is being sent all the time.

Hope that gives you some ideas.

Ah, you luddites amuse me.

The horses left the building a long time ago, and here you just now noticed and decide to play Don Quixote.

You can try a soray electronics cleaner (useful for things like old volume controls/potentiometers) - it may help with the button (or not, as someone else mentioned the contacts can corrode).

But it’s easy and always good to have the spray around for other stuff.

Well done!

Rislone…

Oh boy that’s a name I’ve not heard in a while!

Proper crimp connections are far better than solder in that environment.

I used to solder everything in cars before I learned about vibration and stress on rigid joints like solder.

I switched to crimp only (mumble) decades ago but started buying proper crimp tools and connectors with heat shrink on them. Better ones come with a heat-activated adhesive on the heat shrink too.

None of those crimps have ever failed, and they’re faster and easier to complete.

I’ll only solder something now if it’s the only way to fix it.

My inner solderer cries a little with every crimp, especially after spending decades building up my soldering kits. But I can’t argue with the industry’s experience.