Octohill will come out next week, it’s at least a new take.

Centauri Carbon might be worth a look into then - it can print fairly high temperature filaments.

You’re welcome.

The main recommendation I have, though: Enjoy it.

Southeast Asia is fun and especially if you make an effort to meet the people “in their world” it’s quite an experience.

Recommendation: (mooommm,grandpa is talking about the war again) Stay away from other Westerners,even Backpackers for a time. It helps. Personally I had great experiences with couchsurfing but that was before the site was turned to shit and you could use it to meet locals simply for a drink. Had some really memorable experiences that way.

(And again: Get travel insurance, I literally have another young lad’s case who ruined his life both healthwise but also financially on my desk at the moment)

I personally would start with TPU(after PETG) - the different shore grades provide a large usability for a lot of things and it print comparably well once you find the right calibration. Especially with a A1 as you mentioned you have one.

To be honest I would skip ABS totally in an A1 unless you have an external enclosure with a good filtering and exhaust solution. Be aware of the noxious fumes ABS will produce that have a potential to intoxicate you and are suspected to cause cancer depending on the additives. (Among others ABS produces hydrogen cyanide when printed - which is often better known under it’s former German brand name: Zyklon B…)

ASA nowadays provides a far less problematic (but not unproblematic) solution and while it’s a little bit more complicated to print it’s still manageable depending on the filament manufacturer. But you will need a temperature stabilised enclosure for both anyway, while ASA is a bit more sensitivitie,it doesn’t really matter that much for me.

Within ASA I personally found a far larger bandwidth of printability between the manufacturers. The major manufacturers for PLA often suck - especially Bambu Lab ASA is hideous to print. If you are in Europe I cannot recommend the Black Forest Filament ASA enough, their stuff is not comparable to any other ASA I printed. Alternatively material4print. If you need a filament that is available worldwide Filamentum Apollo X is a solid choice, so is Polymaker,but both to a lesser extend.

In theory PMMA, PCTG and CPE are also worth a consideration, but besides CPE all of them are far more difficult to print.

BTW: All variants need to be printed very dry, ideally out of a warm dry box.

Tbf, comparing blender and openscad is more like comparing a hammer with a knife.

FreeCAD would be the more obvious comparison here - and while Openscad has some benefits for more complicated projects it is less than optimal - and sadly FreeCAD still sucks compared to most commercial products,even though it has improved recently due to the ONSEL influence.

There simply is none. Because you have trace amounts of Methanol in every hard liquor as it is created when Pektin is separated during the production. While it can be minimised by proper precautions (right enzymes,right base, etc.) and some liquors carry smaller (Potato,grain based) or higher (fruit based) contents, even professionally produced liquor carries a (very very) small amount.

This does rule out all the “test stripe/kit” sets that are e.g. used in waste water treatment (methanol there is really bad as it means your plant is contaminated and your bacterial cultures are possibly dead) as they only perform quantitative tests - they tell you “yes/no”. But when every test is potentially a yes,it won’t help. (And additionally they are prone to interference by ethanol and some other stuff and need very specific test conditions)

So the test needs to be quantitative - it needs to tell you how much Methanol is there. The only mobile process I am aware of is photorefractometer based - and these need very specific sample preparation that is unfeasible with a drink in a bar. Besides, the cheapest commercial product I am aware of is around 4k and “mobile” is,well, a big word for it - the device is the size of around 4 Nintendo switch consoles. (And each test including preparation takes around 5-10min and costs 20 bucks)

There has been a research project by the Swiss ETH Zurich that claimed that a smaller device has been build,but as far as I know it has not yet reached market maturity so far.

Lastly it’s also a bit of a problem of practicability - do you want to test each drink? Because what happens if the barkeeper changes the bottle while you drink there? Can you still perform the test after one drink? Or two? Unlikely. Can you make sure the testing conditions in terms of temperature,etc. are met?

So in the end you are absolutely out of luck,sadly. But there are a few things one can do besides drinking only in reputable bars or drink no alcohol:

• Stay.the.fuck.hydrated. I know, we all say that a lot, but especially in a warm environment you often aren’t. And in case your body actually encounters Methanol it will need a fucking lot of water to get rid of it as fast as possible (via your kidneys). It’s basically your best bet. Because most methanol poisoning cases are actually never recognised as such, as people simply think they have a hangover,stomach bug,etc. You don’t get blind, you don’t die, you just kill a bit of your liver, heart and brain.

• Immediately stop drinking if you get a drink that tastes like it contains a lot of alcohol but does not make you tipsy - the inebriation of Methanol is far less than ethanol and while you every likely have already ingested a dose that will severely hurt you, it can make a difference. If you start to feel sickish after that get to a reputable hospital asap. There are good hospitals in Vietnam,but they might not be around the corner. (And for fucks sake get travel insurance)

• Watch your surroundings. If the bar you are in is only frequented by tourists despite your location making it normally a likely spot for locals as well this is not a good sign. If the bartender used different bottles of the same brand for different guests it is not a good sign as well. If they use two bottles of the same brand for the same drink? Stay the fuck away. (That’s a common way to hide counterfeit alcohol - you have one legit bottle you use for controls, sometimes for shots especially at the beginning of a night and fill drinks and later rounds up with the counterfeit bottle)

• Now for something a bit more risky: Get a bit drunk beforehand from safe alcohol. No,I am not joking. Methanol competes with regular ethanol for certain enzymes/receptors. By blocking them off before Methanol arrived one can buy the body a bit of time to get rid of more Methanol. (Especially as Ethanol is more competitive). That is why back when I started my career it was not uncommon for a patient to receive ethanol in hospital - or, if that one was “out of stock” for some reason aka an alcoholic pharmacist - to drive lights and sirens to the next 24/7 fuel station as they are allowed to sell alcohol here. Again,that will not safe you,but it might buy your kidneys time.

• If you feel unusually sickish the next morning,like having an extra hard hangover or similar symptoms for the next 48-72h: Get yourself to a doctor if you have the slightest doubt in your alcohol sources. It’s very rare for people to be intoxicated so badly that they are incapacitated directly. Almost all cases die after a latency period of 48-72h before the real bad symptoms set in. If you are able to receive modern intensive care medicine within that time there is a chance to survive cases nowadays that would have died 15 years ago.

Or,even easier: Don’t drink.

(And for fucks sake people: Get travel insurance, don’t drink and drive scooters, and maybe find out where the next private hospital is in the area you travel to. )

Yeah,one of the few drawbacks they have. Most people can live with it, but it’s indeed one of the things they should be providing by now but don’t

Hetzner

There has been a NIH 3D model database,but it has become unreliable already for orange reasons. Besides that there aren’t many options beside manifold or plainly hosting your own site (which is not that hard tbh, but makes it hard for others to find,though)

Yeah,it will come to that. It very much depends on what you look for. Qidi is currently an alternative - amongst others. The other big question is how long BL will take. The longer they take to release the better - simply because the competition then has more time to refine their options.

You can also simply copy the current install on a USB stick and boot from there - once you have the SD card running that’s also an option. Tutorial: https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-boot-from-usb/

Besides the specialist PV solutions node red might actually also be an alternative for what you want to achieve - but I also cannot understand the issues with HA. Is it possible that your SD card is slow/detectiv?

Yeah, that’s sounds solid. Just make sure your next of kin know where to look and that there is something to look for.

Ah, a Kiwi. Say hello to your sheep’s from me. (Sorry,former WA resident here, couldn’t resist)

But yeah, we are using exactly that model - and it’s currently only 20 NZD less from what I pay wholesale in Europe for it. So it seems like a pretty decent price.

The drive itself is solid. We currently have around 10, maybe 15, at our clients and it works without any hassle.

I personally recommend to store the disk’s offsite(I store them in a locked box in a bank vault) and some of my clients choose to store another drive there to be extra safe,but I personally don’t see the point.

3-2-1 is the minimal consensus and not recommended anymore for everything you need to reliably have access to after a long time - the fact that some ransomware viruses intentionally have a very time they are laying low to decrypt old and rarely used files is one of the main reasons. Healthcare, finance, taxation, accounting, etc. are all sectors that heavily rely on WORM media and long term tape storage.

You are right that a spinning disk often can work for 10 years - but there is a reason they are exchange earlier in a professional setting. Not all of them will. And you were talking about cold storage disks. This is something even the manufacturers do not recommend - for a reason.

There are still problems with the hard drive solutions:

• Powering up the drives for a short period does not help with error correction when sectors get compromised

• As said before it is relatively risky as mechanical parts of HDs do not like to be moved only occasionally. While this problem has become less severe over the last years it still exists.

• The updating will include copying from one drive to another - this process is highly suspectable to errors that might be correct with the right file systems - but it’s not a guarantee.

• And the main problem: You want to achieve a long shelf life - which means you must consider periods of time when you might not be able to maintain the data. What happens when you are not able to do so? And your next of kin are not quite ready to go through your things? To give you an example: You copy your data on the HDs today, maintain the disk’s for four years and want to change disk’s in 5, which means in 2030. Sadly a weeks before you are able to do so, John,your neighbourhood’s stupid school bus driver hits you and you suffer a major traumatic brain injury. Even worse,you don’t die right away but suffer for another 5 years in a nursing home before a infection gets you. Your family meanwhile is not quite ready to get through your things as you are still alive, aren’t you? (For real,this is the case a lot) After your funeral it takes them another year to finally get through all your things. Now your drives haven’t been used for 7 years. Even worse,one of them slips through your next of kind hand and hits the ground hard. How big do you think the chances are the data is still available? I think we both know the answer. While M-Disks are also suspectable to damage there are hardened multi-disk cases that make them pretty much indestructible - nothing any HD case can ever achieve.

You need a designated M Disc capable burner,yes. (Not generic BDXL,there are slight differences) There are a few on the market though - they cost around 100-150 bucks usually.(In theory you can use a regular writer sometimes - I know people who do that,but why risk that?) I usually recommend the verbatim to my clients,they are dirt cheap and work flawlessly so far.

For reading the discs any regular data-capabale blue ray disk drive will do.

This is actually terrible advice. WORM media exists for a reason and telling someone with a mere 3-2-1 he will never loose data is absolutely irresponsible.

Neither is it a good idea to use regular hard-disk for offsite-cold storage. A really really bad idea.

Hard drives loose their data fast if not powered (within a few years),so do SSD based media. Furthermore the former are very suspectable to mechanical destruction, electromagnetic interference,etc. And even if for some reason your drives last that long there will be nothing to connect them to - you know how we connected hard drives 25 years ago? Via SCSI/IDE. Good luck finding a converter to these now. If you go back further you need ISA controllers for the drives.

This is a really bad idea. Really really bad, especially with the goal you want to achieve. Your data will be gone within 5 to 10 years.

Wrong post, ignore this.