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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 30th, 2023

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  • So many people way overuse the term “sterilize”.

    For anyone unaware, “sterile” means zero life remaining, not “really clean”. You serilize things with a pressure canner and strict protocols or an autoclave (which is essentially a pressure cooker). With steam, you need 15 minutes at 121 °C or 3 min at 134 °C. Dry heat requires 2 hours at 160 °C.
    There are a handful of other ways (like tyndallization), but not common or convenient.

    For fermentation, you don’t need sterile unless you are working in a yeast lab or something like that where you are trying to grow up pure cultures. Sanitization or disinfection is good enough. Basically you want to kill enough of the bad bacteria/yeast that the good stuff out competes it.

    Trying to get jars sterile for fermenting peppers is pointless because the peppers themselves are host to a huge heterogeneous population of bacteria and yeast, and you aren’t operating under a laminar flow cabinet or something crazy like that.

    Yeah, you want them clean and sanitized, but it’s really all about controlling the probabilities. Higher salt concentration helps, being really careful about keeping things submerged helps, using a good airlock and relatively small headspace helps, and rejecting any peppers that seem suspect helps. Also, resist the urge to open the jars a whole bunch of times. Every time you do, you let in oxygen.

    Also, OP, buy some pH test paper. It’s nice to be able to double check that the pH is in the right range once you think it’s done.



  • It’s really the fundamental mistake of thinking “I am a smart person, educated and trained in a specific discipline, and if I apply myself to a field where I’m an outsider, I’ll have a unique perspective that could disrupt the industry”.

    There are obviously people who are multidisciplinary, and there are obviously multidisciplinary teams, but you can’t just step into a different discipline as an outside observer and come up with something that isn’t completely full of holes.

    People who are good at multidisciplinary collaborations are really good at letting their inexperience show, but that requires a lot of humility. If you drop an MD or a college professor onto a construction site, and have them come up with a list of ways they would improve the process, 19/20 of their suggestions will be obvious garbage to even a new construction worker. The key is to actually bounce those ideas off the people doing the work, and then you get useful stuff. Again, though, that takes humility that is particularly hard to find in academia.




  • Easy.

    Hypothetically speaking:

    • hybrid wheat produces enough to become an economical chemical feedstock like maize
    • we all start fueling our cars with wheated whiskey instead of the usual corn whiskey and dino squeezings
    • climates and terrains previously uneconomical to cultivate become economical, and natural areas get converted to industrial agriculture
    • water usage, fossil fuel based and other non-renewable (phosphorus) fertilizer usage, and topsoil erosion all skyrocket in new areas
    • like 10 guys get even bigger hyperyachts while everyone else suffers


  • I have a fancy one (mauviel), and i don’t really have any reason to think it’s any better than something 1/3 the price.

    If you look at Mauviel vs something like Lodge, the design is pretty much identical, including the steel thickness. If you go from those thicker pans to something even cheaper, you can basically get 1/3 the price of even a Lodge.

    For example, my Mauviel is $120, an equivalent Lodge is $40, and an equivalent Choice (restaurant supply store brand) is $12.

    With thinner metal, maybe you wouldn’t want to really crank maximum heat on an empty pan like to sear a steak, but for most uses, I’m sure you’d be fine.


  • I have this one. I will say that their instructions for seasoning the pan really suck.

    My instinct was to treat it like my cast iron, but since this was my first carbon steel pan (other than my wok which works differently), I decided to follow their process exactly.

    If i remember right, it came coated in beeswax, which you have to melt off. It then tells you to basically have a pool of oil in it while you put it in a really hot oven. It just ended up with a really splotchy season. I’m hoping it smooths out over time, but it’s been a couple years at this point.

    I keep debating stripping it off entirely and starting over like i would for cast iron, but that’s a whole undertaking.


  • I’ve made this type of bread a whole bunch (king arthur flour’s recipe). I use 100% hydration. I think what helped for me is that I proofed the dough in a large, rectangular tub (aka a “cambro”). It lets you pick the dough up from the center and really let it stretch out so you can get great gluten development to hold it together.

    I also let them rise on parchment paper, and i cut between the loaves so I can slide them onto a hot baking stone one by one. The stone gives really good oven spring.





  • Generally, when you want to heat the beer is after fermentation has peaked. Higher temps means faster fermentation (obviously to a point), and fermentation generates heat (positive feedback loop), which is why you need to cool beer through the initial stages of fermentation). After peak though, the temperature drops and causes a positive feedback loop downwards. This means that your beer really crawls to the finish line. Your beer might be 90% done after 3 days, but then take a couple weeks for that last 10%.

    Another benefit is if you are bottling the beer, you need to know how much sugar to add. Calculators ask for the beer temperature post fermentation to determine residual CO2. With a dropping temperature, it’s hard to say what that point is, and if fermentation is just stalled, not complete, you could have residual fermentation sugar. Bumping the temperature up at the end solves both problems.

    I also second adding a fan. No need for anything crazy, just something little to move the air. I used a old computer case fan wired to a random DC charger from the “miscellaneous chargers” bin at the thrift store: just make sure the voltage works with the fan.

    Moisture can be an issue when you are keeping a fridge above the designed set temperature, but below ambient. I just keep a long sock filled with silica beads in mine. To recharge, I can just pop it in a low oven. They sell devices to do this (evadry is the brand name), but you might get literally 20x less silica for the convenience of a case and built in heating element.



  • Total War: Empire. I’ve previously played Rome 1/2, Medieval 1/2, and Atilla. For anyone who’s played other total war games, there are a couple of game mechanics that are new in Empire.

    There are actual naval battles, where you put ships into a battle line, and you can board enemy ships. It’s cool but hard (for me) to control. Also many of the buildings in a territory aren’t located in the capital because it’s meant to represent colonial holdings, so you can have a sugar plantation or something outside the protection of a city, and a lot of the warfare ends up being small skirmishes sacking outlying buildings.





  • I’ve definitely got a soft spot for any electromechanical appliances. Computers have gotten so cheap that every appliance built now runs on them, but it’s much harder (for me, at least) to do anything about it when one stops working.

    • My chest freezer stopped working, and i was able to put in a new relay for $2. The circuit diagram made it easy to diagnose with a multimeter. Oddly enough, i had to buy a 10 pack, so i likewise have a bunch of spares I’ll never need.

    • My dishwasher stopped working, and the manual specifically showed which wires to connect to to test resistance of each component to see if anything needed to be replaced. It turned out that the float was gunked up, so it read as having enough water even though it didn’t.

    • My fridge ice maker stopped working, and I just had to stick in a jumper wire to put it through a test cycle that immediately made it clear what was going wrong (a short), and i was able to fix it.

    This is all in contrast to my clothes washer that runs on a computer, and it gives me an error message that basically just means “it’s not draining right”, and there’s like 8 potential causes, and I’ve tried to address them all, but it’s still get the error message.