I didn’t know about those laws nor about those 3d blueprints. Thanks!

Flash lights (headlamp, floodlamp, wired hook) all are welcome

Solar oven for the prepper

Books of matches

Parachute cord

Knives (key chain knife that looks like a key, pocket knife with fold out locking blade that has interchangeable blades with box cutters)

I am going to give all advice then look at the comments to see if there is anything more to say (jog my memory).

Remember that if a baby is crying and you are at your wits end, you can

• put them in a safe spot and breathe away from them e.g. put the infant in a car seat in an air conditioned space e.g. your house or a crib and walk far enough away that you can’t hear them for 10 mins.

Also you can get concert reusable ear plugs. You can hear conversation and crying through them, but it takes the Edge off. Totally worth it.

If your baby has the tongue attached to the bottom of the mouth with skin, insurance won’t cover if a doctor deems it to not affect speech development, BUT that baby will not be able to such from a breast unless it is cut.

Having a universal bottle steamer is great. Good for steaming frozen breast milk for babies and steaming milk for coffee.

Never leave an infant around a dog. Dog instincts sometimes are to kill offspring that is not their own, or to pick up infants by the scruff of the neck like puppies. Not even once.

If future momma is having trouble walking up stairs, you can always crawl on your hands and knees while she sits on your shoulders. She will likely laugh the whole way.

Natural births (no morphine and no oxytocin and no interventions e.g. c sections) increase if you know how to work through pain. The kind of labor pain and contractions is similar to that of an orgasm. She has to be allowed to not be “up in her head” and instead in the moment. I got a doula to be there during labor and certain instincts of mine were distracting and pulling my wife into a mindset that was halting the oxytocin production iland increasing the pain.

Have the future momma take the multivitamin every day and retake it if it is thrown up. If there are any preexisting conditions in momma then the pregnancy is much likelier to be with good outcomes.

Remember the 5 s’s , shushing, bouncing, stomach pressure, swaying, swaddling. These 5 are the goto for soothing a baby.

Get a medicine ball that fits future momma. When she gets closer to giving birth, it is really easy to sit and “walk” by bouncing while watching a show. Also after baby is born, it is really easy to put baby in a sling/wrap/carrier and bounce the baby to sleep while playing videogames.

Certain babies and mothers sleep better when in bed together. There is recent conflicting information regarding whether this increases or decreases infant death. It’s worth looking into to see recent developments.

When you are full of adrenaline and baby was just born, make a journal entry. It all gets hazy as the adrenaline goes down.

Good luck!

Well, i just remembered the nexus mods and vortex Mod manager business model. All downloads are counted and you are asked to give an endorsement of the mod after a period of time. There is then a option to donate and you can choose your allocation if any. Something like that could only run once per month and be able to give good info. While tracking use time can be like beneficial Spyware, I think I would still like the reminder without that service.

I would like to have a way to track my use of FOSS, but i want to retain my privacy. I would be interested in this app. I also would like a different way to allocate so that apps that increase my efficiency so that I don’t spend a long time troubleshooting something get the bigger slice. Perhaps having an optional “impact” survey with varying degrees of granularity (impact survy with only thumbs up and down OR impact survey with only 5 stars OR impact survey with 1-100) honestly this would be really cool if adoption got so high that this became the “patreon” of linux apps (aka having a “like” at the bottom that would remind you of high impact).

The undergarment is what a mormon wears after the 2 temple ceremonies that are to give them extra power and protection. It is kinda like a clerics robes, but not shouting to everyone at every time. The first designs had turtle necks and long sleeves. The “important” part of them are the symbolic parts which are not at the sleeves, so generally this is part of the general movement of mormon church policy away from “we made these policy rules black and white so it is easier for you to measure personal commitment”. The church recently likes to go by “the restored church of Jesus christ” as a nickname instead of mormon. Additionally, with the opening of “Grey areas”, the lines between doctrine, temporary policy, and sometimes cult like culture are easier to see. According to the People I talk to, this is a non issue.

Does cooking oil ever go rancid? Is rancid smell able or attracting rodents? I have avoided it generally. Also because I am using non food grade stuff, wearing disposable gloves is good.

How does this compare against quik? https://f-droid.org/packages/dev.octoshrimpy.quik

Based on the other comments, i updated my post.

I appreciate the link. I read through it and it was primarily about general combustion, and mentioned that Wood smoke contained VOCs. I think CO might be one of those referenced, but the link did not go into any discussion of CO, so I would like to know how this “basic research” is relevant to our “CO” specific discussion.

Thanks for the correction. I updated my post.

First, i had enough pushback to get me to update the original post. I needed to say “generally doesn’t make CO”. This is based on wood definitely can emit CO when burning “charcoal” e.g. wood without enough O2 or fresh wood.

Regarding my rationale, I thought it had to do with the spacing or timing of the burn through each grain/fibre. Wood contains water/sap and would therefore have catalysts or contaminants that would change CO into something that would be easier to detect and remove (e.g. irritating ash) than any of the fossil fuels.

Wood fires generally do not produce co. Co comes from coal and natural gas and propane. I support redundancy of having a co detector, but not for your reasons.

Edit: Thanks for the correction. I added the word “generally”. The primary reason for me saying that is that there were basically no deaths from CO while Korea had wood as their heat source then when coal was introduced, they suddenly had a huge spike in CO related deaths, and this warning came while I was doing some bushcrafting research for making charcoal. I thought it applied generally to all heating wood fires that are not first turned to charcoal.

Shadowrun for sega genesis

mostly the first trip is where you get 100% of what you planned, and each additional trip is a trip of shame to admit that you were not perfect in planning. Each additional trip costs at least 30 minutes in time plus almost 20$ in replacement parts for what you broke on round 1. Therefore the despot is that each additional trip is probably filled with cussing and feeling that I am paying 1 hour of my time plus the cost of the parts for a job that was too expensive in the first place.

The condensate pump matters. Also the condensate line is normally flex tubing that can be prone to kinking. I suggest either being OCD about the flex tubing not kinking, or getting rigid PVC, or getting a “bigger” condensate pump. (I got a little orange box and it had no end of issues until i ripped off the drywall and found the kinks and said screw it, lets straighten this out and get a bigger pump and never have to worry about leaking condensate again!!!). Also having the condensate drain into your mechanical room is pretty awesome futureproofing.

I am going to go in depth on how i have researched out HVAC for my residential house:

there are like 5 systems that are often used in combination or on their own:

• fans (recirculate within a room or can be in the top of a house window to make negative pressure, so every open window has a breeze) (most houses have vent fans to make negative pressure in the microwave or the bathroom, but newer houses are not generally made to handle negative pressure well)
• swamp coolers (water + surface area and fans) (these are the cheapest way to cool a house, but you have to vent the humid air out, so it will only get “so cold”) (these can use the centralized air ducts or be a portable room unit) In my opinion, every dull man in this club needs to have a portable unit blowing on you in the summer while working in the garage because cool humid air flow feels like it makes me twice as productive to the alternative (sweating and trying to make decisions while heat exhausted)
• electric room heaters (these can be centralized via baseboard/wall heaters or as a portable room unit). I think every person in this dull men’s club should have one incase your primary heating system goes down or your damn bathroom doesn’t heat as fast as you like while you are showering in the winter. It is faster and cheaper to heat air with a portable room unit that to heat air with leaving the hot shower on for longer.
• heating oil and a boiler and pump system (you will see a lot of radiators in old houses that have this) There are some portable room units that use electricity for the heat.
• central air conditioning (heat pump and small pipes give cold to the central unit, and propane or electric give heat to the central unit) this is the most common in many places in the USA. It recirculates air, and any fumes (e.g. burned food or poo arisol or bleach fumes) have to be vented outside via a window or other (or in my house, breathed and filtered out using my own lungs). OP’s installation of a 96.5% efficient furnace probably has two plastic “burn” related pipes that both supply fresh air to burn and vents out the low temp but high humidity exhaust. Note that the exhaust MUST HAVE A SLOPE BACK TO THE FURNACE or the exhaust will condensate a blockage in a water belly in the exhaust pipe.
• a minisplit system (heatpump outside with two small pipes to a couple heads that are each controlled by that room’s remote) It can both heat and cool.
• heat/environment recovery vents (HRV or ERV) - these have 4 ducts: a external supply/intake, an external return/exhaust, an internal supply/intake, and an internal return/exhaust. They have a small radiator and fans inside to push the air through the radiator. It doesn’t take much electricity and can run all winter/summer without taxing your electricity much. If you add a heavy filter (e.g. HEPA filter) on the external supply/intake, then your allergies will go down and you will have pretty dang fresh air no matter what is going on.

I personally believe that the ideal house will have 3 HVAC systems built into it:

• minisplit (heads in each room and a unit outside).
• HRV or ERV depending on your region (makes the air fresh and eliminates the need to ever have the bathroom fan on or fuss with the microwave recirculating the air because of crappy installations, and any drying of clothes in a dryer will not have the dust in the house go up.) (this also will keep the air clean if you have a HEPA filter, so any nuclear fallout, wildfire smoke, or pollen wont bother you)
• a swamp cooler (largely unused unless the power went out in the summer and you are running on a generator) (if a karen buys your house from you later, you could easily replace the unit with a central air unit without having to tear out your walls and run new duct work. You could have them run a few copper lines with the “armor” insulation around them so that any future HVAC tech would be able to simply hook it up. Shrug. I am daydreaming about a house built from scratch with me micromanaging its creation.

from a dull men’s club perspective, my ideal house would have a ton of ducts, so i would suggest having “trusses with trunkline holes” designed into them before building any floors. I am currently retrofitting my attic to have a flat truss so the flex ducting can run under my catwalk and be fully insulated without any chance of pinching. Also, sidenote, there is such a thing as “vibration isolators” which are basically rubber or mount-spring-mount devices to put under the feet of a appliance that makes vibration. I strongly suggest spending the 12 bucks to put it under your washer, dryer, and outside AC pumps. You can cut a couple 2x4 scraps to make sure that the proper “spacing” for the washer and dryer are maintained while you tip and put the feet under.

im sleepy. thank you for coming to my ted talk

That’s ice damming. Basically it can be prevented with proper ventilation of roof cladding/shingle nail board. Normally eaves, baffles, and turtle/ridge vents will be enough to prevent icicles more than. 6 in long.

Once I got a quote from one of the doorstep fliers. The guy defrauded me between 54% and 30% of the original contract price because he waited until he got half up front before saying he would do a job with crappy materials that would only last a year or so unless i paid 54% more. I should have cancelled the check and said get off my property.