You won’t be able to go perpendicular, the rectangular cross section will be larger than the mouth of the jar at the corners. They can get it parallel and try to slide it out the way it went in, but it might pull a vacuum and get stuck.
They are likely going to need to break the jar to save the weight. No big loss, it happens.
For small cuts it’s fine, worst case you get a small scar where you wouldn’t have otherwise. The reason you want the pads over stuff like betadine is cost, application, and shelf life. Mostly cost.
You aren’t trying to clean the wound itself as much with antiseptic, it’s more cleaning the surrounding skin under the bandage so you don’t get a colony of bacteria causing staph. It’s a numbers game, your body can handle some bacteria, so you get the number down to a manageable amount with a swab and bandage it to keep it clean while the body handles the rest.
You should be cleaning the wound itself with just water, any antiseptic will cause funky healing when applied directly to broken skin.
Floaties, water skin, slingshot rubber, and the most important one you have in a first aid kit: tourniquet.
That one condom in the emergency kit wasn’t for sex, it was for dealing with a fall that resulted in a bone poking out of the skin or similar.
Small web hosting, pihole, docker dashboard, Minecraft server for kids, wireguard router for travelling, or just use it with a media center spin/Kodi and turn it back into a media box that doesn’t suck.
Those specs are enough to do a lot of stuff.
No, you are correct, I have a bad habit of confusing quake and UE, Carmack and Sweeney tend to come up in the same conversations. My point still stands though, Id has always pushed the envelope on game optimization.
It’s not one big optimization, it’s a product of Id actually having some of the best UE developers on the planet being able to tweak the engine to run like a beast. Each level is crafted from the ground up to allow for some sweeping optimizations revolving around actor loading and culling, and the game uses proper light baking to allow raytracing to handle marginal calculations instead of explicit path tracing every shadow. It’s a lot of little things that all take impressive amounts of skill and management to pull off effectively, a lot of this stuff is implemented poorly in other games and it show
Edit: Id has their own engine, I always confuse quake/doom and UE. Still though, Id has always built games that were well optimized. Look at some of the systems they managed to port quake to. I was wrong about the engine, but not about the talent in the studio.s.
That’s kind of it though, the lines being drawn one at a time, in real time, you just can’t emulate that. You would need refresh rates in the thousands of hz to make it look even close to right, and that completely ignores the persistence of vision effect.
Believe me, I tried. I explored damn near every possibility on 6 months of salary, it boiled down to an FPGA clone hooked up to a custom CRT driver and that still had issues with how it would look because the Vectrex uses an unhinged aspect ratio. If your tube isn’t the right shape all of the graphics get messed up because the system draws on a polar plane. It’s a fucking mess, I really wish people would stop trying to emulate it and just put the cash into making a proper tube. Would save actual engineers a lot of headache.
It’s always Vectrex too. I had a customer that was obsessed with getting one emulated, he just refused to understand that, fundamentally, vector graphics are incompatible with raster. No matter how I tried to break it down that a CRT was a necessity, that raster would always look wrong, that nobody develops a good vectrex emulator because you can’t emulate the graphics…
Grifters gonna grift I guess.
The time frame is mostly to avoid some annoying firmware locks on the drive. Also, that Dell drive is probably a Hitachi or a Liteon rebrand, they don’t make drives themselves. It shouldn’t matter much for reads, both manufacturers have good and bad drives.
All that being said give it a shot, worse case you still get read errors and you are back to square one.
The magic comes from hardware more than software, as others have mentioned you want a good burner to do the rips.
Sorry for the rabbit hole, but media archival is its own can of worms that would take hours to dive into, so in general you want an Asus DVD drive that’s internal, manufactured between 2004 and 2010, supports 52x CD speeds, doesn’t have light scribe, and has the DVD-RW logo on the front bezel. Those are usually the magic drives, and you are generally going to need modified firmware to do some of the more bizarre reads. The Asus BW-16D1HT does Blu-ray and multi region discs, for just DVDs look for one of the DRW-**** drives without light scribe (they have a laser assembly that is higher power to write with, but usually doesn’t have as clean of a signal in exchange, not the best for rips)
From there the software depends on your specific workflow. If you are just trying to recover clean disc rips then dd or ddrescue are going to be your friend. Get a disc image, mount it, use the data from the image instead of the disc. For archiving just the media look into MakeMKV, FFMPEG, and Handbrake for ways to encode the DVDs and audio into friendlier formats. Ffmpeg specifically can be scripted very easily and does audio just as well as video, it is the gold standard for transcoding media.
Again, the issue is the scar tissue. Even if it didn’t develop into a cancer it will give you nasty COPD, gas exchange doesn’t happen with scarred lung tissue. Look at silicosis, potters lung, popcorn lung, and the plethora of other occupational diseases that are caused by particulate matter damaging lung tissue for examples of what asbestos would do without the cancer
We need a drive that’s at least… Three times this size!
Reddragon, and just pull parts from goodwill mice, they send you extra Teflon pads with the mouse so you can open it and keep the pads nice. Switches are just switches, they are standard sizes, and the cords usually use standard plugs, worst case you swap some pins around to match. Insanely easy to take apart, and cheap enough to not worry about breaking.
They are cheap as hell, but they have good tracking sensors and are really comfortable to use.
Second best. The best is actually the reddragon one that’s $20 on Amazon.
I have used every mmo mouse on the market (currently on a scimitar elite, it’s the one op has but silver not yellow) and they are all decent mice, but each has a fatal flaw except the reddragon.
G600 click switches are awful and double click after weeks of use, I had to replace them twice, the final time with the switches out of the red dragon. That was fine for close to 10 years, but the side key caps fall off, they are barely glued on.
The scimitar has an awful encoder on the scroll wheel, I had to open the mouse to pack it with Vaseline to get it working properly, and disassembling the scimitar is a nightmare.
The reddragon has bad software, but it’s also supported by open source options for remapping and RGB, so it’s one flaw was by far the easiest to fix.
The g600 was the most comfortable to palm, but the side keys are in an awkward spot to palm the mouse, the scimitar is nice for the adjustable keypad, but it moves with time and tightening it too much will break the mouse. The red dragon has an odd texture on the far side, very rough, but otherwise the best for a claw grip.
Corn sugar is made up of a pretty large amount of glucose, so eating corn is like eating one of the shock tabs. Which is also a good way to confirm that it’s glucose; rice, beans, and chocolate cake all contain pretty small amounts of just glucose, the other sugars need time to break down.
So you might be able to save both the jar and the weight here.
Finish the pickles, empty the jar and clean it out so you just have the jar with the weight inside. Dry it out and put like a drop of vegetable oil around the weight.
Put the whole jar in the freezer, get it super cold, more importantly get the air inside of it super cold.
While it’s cold get the weight in the mouth of the jar and get it trying to come out, it should want to pull a vacuum. Once it does, just warm the jar and the air inside of it up to room temperature. The pressure from the air warming up should pop the weight right out, if not use a hair dryer.