Just how many angels can dance on the head of a pin? Or more importantly, how many demons can skate on a snowflake? How much purity is needed?

The best licences protect everyone. This one seems to do a pretty good job of protecting both Prusa and the consumer. Is it perfect? No. But it’s far better then Prusa getting raped and pillaged into nothing. And it goes a very, very, very long to protect consumers access to parts and design specifications.

Yes, this does work. I do this if I have a tangle in a spool. I don’t even stop printing most of the time because it’s quick and easy to do.

I have 2. One is a real shop with a metal lathe, vertical mill, drill press, hydraulic press, and welders and other stuff. That’s all in a separate building.

My 2 printers, a Mk3s and an A1 min and AMS sit nicely on a pine log table that’s 21"x49". It has a large drawer that I gridfinitied and holds everything I need to completely disassemble a 3D printer, repair it, and reassemble. I also 3D printed a system with 2 small drawer that hold things like screws, magnets, and heat set inserts. A cheap rolling 5 shelf unit sits tucked into a corner and holds some extra 3D stuff and also some basic hand tools for home repairs so I don’t need to go out the real shop at midnight when it might be -30F out there for doing a quick fix.

I have 2 plastic totes to store my filaments in under the table. This helps manage my filament inventory by limiting the amount I can store. Though there is room for excess as needed for bigger projects.

My work surface is my desk with my computer, papers, and other miscellaneous stuff in the 3 drawers it has.

People who design 3D prints chase whatever is popular and pays. So all payed models tend to look alike. IMO those are people to totally ignore.

To find the new and unique you need to sort through a lot of chaff to find the seeds.

As a knuckle dragging Philistine also, I own one too, so I speak from personal experience. I like mine as a printer that currently works well also.

But, forewarned is forearmed as they say.

Oh you sweet summer child. I understand how great it looks compared to your old Ender.

Bambu, Pretty good hardware Less than good software/firmware Dubious business practices.

My recommendations are to ditch Studio and Handi app that runs on your phone. Switch to to Orca Slicer. And run all the calibrations in Orca. Run LAN mode and if your firmware is stable, don’t upgrade it unless you really need to. Don’t buy Bambu filaments. The RFID tags ain’t worth $5 to $10 more per kilo. They are made by Sunlu and eSun. Buy those direct for less money. A standalone AMS never goes on sale. And they cost nearly as much as your printer did.

I tried it back in the day and wasn’t impressed by it. But I used CAD professionally before hand also. So I expect more powerful software.

Fedora offers a very good set of choices.

The most recommended youtube FreeCAD instructor is https://www.youtube.com/@MangoJellySolutions. He has an extensive series that can take you from literally how to set things up and how to begin your first part and sketch to designing airfoils. And he stays current with the stable releases and a few peeks into the weekly releases.

Sadly, this is the truth.

And does not run on any of my Linux computers.

With the super tack cool plate Bambu recommends removing the print while warm. Don’t wait for the bed and part to cool. And DON’T wipe with IPA. Soap and water only when needed.

I bought one when they were on sale just before Christmas. It’s not a plate I intend to use a lot. Any part that has a good flat base isn’t meant to be printed on the super tack plate. Only those designs sketchy bed adhesion at best and can’t be printed with supports.

I did use it to print a storage sheath for a fillet knife I have. I was very impressed that I was able to print a rectangular hollow tube with 2mm wide base and 165mm tall vertically with no supports or brim. It was a fine test of my skills as a designer, printer calibration, and the super tack.

“Preferred” doesn’t mean “all the time”. But chamfers are easier to get nicer results with the majority of the time because they are easier for the printer to make.

Avoid fillets and use chamfers if at all possible. Fillets will often call for printing supports or just look bad. But the common 45 degree chamfer will be easily printed and look better when done.

Chamfers are to be preferred over fillets.

Nano is good for quick things and I rather like it. And I’ve been using VIM for years.

Flatseal, flat sweep, and warehouse will manage all your flatpaks as you see fit. And Gear Lever for managing all your appImages.

Most people do like flatpaks, I use them because I use Kinonite and Atomic Budgie, but there are those people that don’t like them or any other 3rd party universal packaging format. it’s kind of a Luddite attitude if you ask me.

That is what freedom is about. Anyone can choose to walk their own path to hell as they see fit. Otherwise you just end up with Windows all over again.

Plato has never struck me as a particularly happy person.

They make great kitten toys based on the rate my wife’s 2 rescue kittens enjoy stealing them out of the poop box.